Everyone knows the benefits of composting but most people believe composting is a homestead project that requires a good amount of space. The truth is, composting is like almost any other homesteading activity – it can be done anywhere, even in a small apartment. Of course, indoor composting is done on a smaller scale, but since your garden is smaller, that works out fine.
There are four main types of indoor composting: electric, aerobic, bokashi, and vermicomposting. Some methods produce compost quicker than others, but all four methods are easy to start and maintain.
The first method, electric composting, is the simplest, as it is done in an indoor composting machine. The main two functions of the indoor composter are to dehydrate the waste you put in and compact it. This leaves you with a brick of dehydrated waste that is actually a pre-compost that you can use as a starter for a compost bin. The drawback to this method is that you don’t end up with ready-to-use compost. The process is extremely fast – some indoor composters take only 24 hours to produce this pre-compost. The machines are small enough to keep on the kitchen counter, and all you have to do is toss in food scraps and push a button.
Aerobic composting, the second method, is the most common method of indoor composting because it requires very little maintenance. Aerobic composting works as microorganisms break down organic waste, turning the waste into compost. These microorganisms need oxygen to survive. You can create your own bin that fits in a closet or under the sink. Make sure it fits easily, as you will need to pull the bin out weekly to turn the compost. Or, you can use a compost tumbler, which is a bin with a handle that rotates the bin, turning the compost for you. If you choose to use aerobic composting, make sure you have the proper airflow, that you keep the material moist (but not wet), and that you turn the compost weekly.
The Bokashi method is unusual as it is anaerobic, meaning it does not need oxygen to work. For this method, you must buy a bokashi bin and bokashi bran, which is usually included with the bin. Mix food waste with the bokashi bran, pressing down to remove any air pockets. Once the bin is filled, you will have compost in approximately two weeks. The compost that comes straight out of the bin is very acidic so you will need to bury your bokashi compost under a layer of dirt for three weeks before it is good to use with all plants.
Our final method, vermicomposting, surprises a lot of people. Yes, you can use worms indoors without any problems! Vermicomposting uses worms and the microbes found in soil to break down organic waste into compost. Vermicomposting is rich in nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium, and makes the best compost because it is more effective at helping soil retain water and guarding against pathogens commonly found in soil. Vermicomposting is inexpensive and it only takes two to three months to see results. All you need are two bins, dirt, shredded paper (mail or newspapers are great), and red worms.
Beginning a week before you start your bin, start collecting food scraps in the second bin. When you are ready to make your compost bin, fill the second bin ¾ of the way full with dampened shredded paper. Gently toss the paper, making sure it is loose and free of clumps. Top with two cups of dirt, then a pound of red worms. Bury the scraps in the worm layer and continue collecting food scraps in the first bin/container. Worms can go through 3.5 pounds of waste every week, and they should be fed should be fed weekly. When compost has replaced all the bedding, move the compost to one side of the bin and add new bedding and soil to the other side. Add your food scraps to the fresh side and the worms will move from the compost to the bedding. The great thing about vermicomposting is you never need to toss the compost, as the worms naturally aerate it as they tunnel through. You will also wind up with worms for your outdoor garden because a healthy compost bin encourages reproduction.
Of course, you can buy a ready-to-use compost bin, but you can also make one yourself for less money. Start with a plastic storage container or metal/plastic trash cans. These containers will need to have a lid. Remember, the bin needs to fit easily in the space you want to put it, so measure before you buy.
Drill 25 evenly-spaced ¼” holes into both the lid and the bottom of the container. Drill two horizontal rows of holes, 1 ½” apart on both sides of the bin.
Set the bin on a plastic or rubber-lidded tray to catch any excess liquid as it drains from the bin. Once you start noticing liquid, collect and wipe the tray down every other day.
Regardless of the method you choose, follow these tips to keep it odor-free and working properly:
- Compost the correct materials in the correct ratio. Don’t get nervous – this isn’t some crazy calculus. You need to have approximately three parts brown material, which is rich in carbon, to one part green material, which provides nitrogen. Rinsed eggshells, dead or dry leaves (not oak or walnut), shredded and moistened paper and cardboard, sawdust, straw, and tea bags are all excellent brown material. For green material, use coffee grounds and the paper filter, grass clippings, lake weed, and fruit and vegetable scraps. Dairy and meat will attract pests.
- If it smells bad, troubleshoot. Compost should not smell bad. You may be keeping it too moist or it may not be getting enough air. If your vermicompost bin smells, you are probably overfeeding the worms and should either cut back on the feedings or buy another pound of worms.
- Chop your food waste into small pieces to encourage quick decomposition.
Composting is very simple, provides nutrients for our gardens and houseplants, and allows us to decrease the amount of waste that ends up in landfills. Even if you are an apartment or backyard homesteader, you can make compost happen.