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I am driving eastward through the American heartland, happy with
anticipation of the trip home, happy with the journey itself.
Of course, I love to travel, have always loved it since early
childhood, when for months at a time travel inevitably meant the Saturday
trip to town, a custom my family shared with all the other farm families
in the Ozark mountains. For
me, the simple act of going somewhere was a powerful treat, to be enjoyed
in its moment and replayed as long as the fixative of memory held, for I
was a contemplative child, nurtured by rural silences as well as by the
richness of rural life.
To be the only child for ten or
so miles in any direction meant long, slow stretches of time that were
entirely my own, time to know--with all five senses--the white wooden
house, the yard with its peony beds and tall oaks, the redolent barn lot,
then the scented open fields, and always, the woods; the old mountains.
I knew all these places and their vivid sensory signatures with the
secure and permanent intimacy of a native, one who belongs.
After all, generations of my kin had lived in the same house, had
worked the same farmland, had traveled through the same worn mountains,
tracing their way along the rocky backs of the ridges.
Let me speak of the pathways
that, because of the fascination they have always held for me, are at the
core of my understanding of travel. These
are the first trails, and because they trace through the woods using paths
of least resistance, usually the ridge tops that are the spines of our
eroded limestone mountains, they are called traces, a word which perfectly
suggests their ability to delineate a pathway and simultaneously evokes
their tentative nature. My
family's land is transversed by such a trace, one of the great old ones.
Within a short walking distance through the thicker part of the oak
forest runs the White River Trace, an earthen thoroughfare not used since
the last century, yet still spoken of in my grandmother's time and in
mine, its numinous quality, its ability to evoke the allure of journeying,
as yet undimmed.
Sometimes I am struck by the
contrasts--and the resulting tensions--that make up my personal history.
Oddly, the most compelling of these is geographic, and perhaps most
essentially climatic. The
wooded mountain area of my birth is humid, green, and lush during most of
the growing season, and wet and cold in winter.
As an adult I have freely chosen to spend my working life in the
Chihuahuan desert, attracted by the cultural mixture of the Southwest, so
various when measured against the folkways of my native woodlands.
I remember my first impressions of the desert, and the shock of
pleasure when, at the end of a long westerly odyssey, I found, by
following my affinity for high trails, a winding road up the flanks of the
treeless mountains. It was,
by coincidence, sunset, and when I silenced my engine at the summit, the
sky was alive with color. Watching
the lights of two bordering cities shimmer and pulse, I knew I had done
well. In the succeeding
years, the desert's mingled peoples, like blended threads of color in a
complicated tapestry, have for me been a sustaining interest, their
beliefs and customs offering an inexhaustible voyage of discovery to the
grown-up child who always wanted to go somewhere.
But my paradox is to be perpetually drawn back, tethered by strands
of desire, to the old climate, to the moist air, tangible against the
skin, and the waters, trees, and trails of home.
(continued)
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