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Home Winterization Anyone Can Tackle by Doug Smith

continued from page three

Other Winterization Measures:  With the exterior better sealed, now it's time to turn your attention to the interior.  There area several simple, inexpensive things you can do to save on heating costs.  The next several suggestions are listed in no particular order, but all are good ideas to address.

Consider more insulation in the attic – One of the best investments in winterization (best because you can get good returns for the investment) is adding more attic insulation.  I know, reading the labels of insulation packages can be mind-boggling.  But it doesn't have to be.  Just know that more is usually better.  You should have a minimum of a foot (12 inches) if insulation in the attic laying on the top of the ceiling.

Like so many things, the higher the insulating properties (the larger “R” value) the higher the cost will be.  But do what you can afford, keeping in mind that anything is better than nothing, and more is better than a little.  Just remember that when you lay out the insulation it should be snug to the exterior walls to eliminate any air gaps.  And insulation works best if not packed too tight.  It should maintain nearly the same “fluff” it has when unrolled from the package.  Cutting and installing can be done with a utility knife and tape measure. 

Electrical receptacles – any openings in exterior walls, even openings on the interior side only, can let in cold air from inside the walls.  Electrical outlet and switch boxes are cut into walls, often with small gaps between the boxes and interior wall covering.  Those gaps can be a quarter-inch wide.  A typical box is 4-by-2 inches.  That quarter-inch gap around the perimeter is equal to a 1-by-3 inch hole in your wall.  Let's say your home has 10 outlets or switches on exterior walls.  All total, that's equivalent to a 5-by-6 inch hole in the interior wall letting cold air in.  You'd certainly want to patch that hole, wouldn't you? Well you can for pocket change.

the initial steps are taking to seal up the exterior, turn your attention to assuring pipes are wrapped as needed.

Hardware stores and home centers sell outlet gaskets, thin foam rectangles that sit behind the faceplate of a switch or receptacle and insulate the gap between the box and surrounding wall board.  Installing them is the easiest repair discussed yet.  Simply remove the cover plate of the outlet or switch, slip the foam gasket in place, and replace the cover.  It's that simple but can really save you from heating unwanted outside air. 

Water lines: In many cases wrapping water lines with insulation is unnecessary.  But if the crawlspace of a home is not sealed up – such as a mobile home with inadequate underpinning – or a water line runs along an exterior wall of the foundation, then you might want to consider covering it with insulation or installing a heat tape.

In the case of the example home mentioned in this story, the homeowner, this author, made a major engineering mistake while rerouting water lines one summer day several years ago during the kitchen remodel and snaked the water lines for the faucet and dishwasher along an exterior footing in an area that has only about two inches of clearance between the soil and bottom of the floor joists.  The next winter I discovered, to my own dismay, that when the temperature dropped below 15 degrees outside for more than 24 hours or so that my water lines, both hot and cold, would freeze. 

The lines were not wrapped with insulation or a heat tape.  They sit just inches in from the concrete footing and practically lay on top of the ground.  It doesn't take a rocket scientist to realize that the cold wicks through the soil and quickly reaches the PVC pipes.  After a few freeze instances early that first winter I temporarily removed a couple siding boards from the exterior wall and insulated the pipes as best as possible with little space to work.  The afterthought fix has helped considerably, but during prolonged times with temperatures hovering around 5 Fahrenheit or less I am sure to leave that particular faucet dripping as a precaution.  Never run water lines along exterior walls if it can possibly be avoided! Simple stuff a plumber would know, but not a novice first-time homeowner. 

Keep the furnace clean – Replace the furnace filter regularly.  Although it sound simple, how many people actually do it religiously? Not the people I know, anyway.  But it pays to create a routine of switching out filters on a regular basis.  Old houses seem to manufacture dust at a rapid rate, so I switch out my furnace filters every month.  In a newer, less productive dust factory that might only be required once or twice a heating season.  But find what works best for your furnace and then mark a reminder on a calendar.

We heat with a combination of an electric furnace during mild fall and spring days, and a wood furnace during hard winter.  At the end of each heating season I clean the ashes from my wood furnace and coat the interior of the firebox with a film of used oil.  I tie a rag to a stick and use it as a mop to apply the oil.  It keeps down the likelihood of rust forming during summer when heating and cooling can create moisture on metal surfaces.  I also sweep my chimney good at the same time.  Come wood heating season I climb on the roof and make a visual inspection of the flue with a flashlight to assure birds have not built a nest in the pipe.  Then I'm ready to fire the furnace for the season.  The amount of oil I use in the spring for coating the firebox is only a half a quart or so at little cost.  I bought my chimney brush and fiberglass cleaning rods to attach it to several years ago, and I intend to use the same setup until I'm too old to keep up with a woodstove.

Other steps that can keep heating costs down include keeping your heat source maintained. For wood burning stoves or furnaces that means a clean flue. A brush and cleaning rods are generally a one-time purchase that will last year after year.

Reverse the ceiling fans – Most ceiling fans have a small switch near the bottom that allow the user to reverse the electric motor.  In the summertime the blades should be turning counter-clockwise, drawing heat up and away from center of the room.  In the winter the blades should turn clockwise, pushing the warmer air (hot air rises, remember that from high school science class) downward and causing it to recirculate through the room. 

Clean gutters and yard debris – One last winterization tip is to take time and clean out the gutters after the last leaves have fallen and before winter's dampness starts freezing ice on the roof.  Clean gutters and downspouts will not necessarily keep your home warmer in winter, but it will certainly make it last longer.  Winter involves lots of water – rain, freezing rain, sleet, snow – all of which needs an easy way to get off your roof and away from your home's exterior. 

Also, look to make sure any landscaping you might have done during the summer months hasn't created drainage issues around the foundation.  Adding a flower bed or regrading a section of lawn can cause runoff to divert toward the house instead of away.  Check immediately after a heavy fall or early winter rain for signs of water pooling near the foundation. 

Winter can really be trying, and especially to a homeowner.  But by taking the initiative to correct a few minor concerns and staying on top of any issues, you can have a warm, inviting oasis from Old Man Winter's foul breath.  Robert Byrne is credited for saying “Winter is nature's way of saying 'Up yours'.”  But by following these helpful tips just discussed you can have the final say in how winter treats you.

 
 

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